Trip toward home turns into a Trail of Tears!





Everything really is bigger in Texas! While traveling down Route 66 in Amarillo, Texas we stopped at "The Big Texan" Steakhouse. All up and down Route 66 are large signs advertising a free 72 oz. steak in Amarillo. The hitch is, its only free if you can eat it within one hour. I really wanted to give it a try but my cholesterol and blood pressure are already too high so cooler heads prevailed and we settled for some really rare prime rib. Really rare.

While we were in Taos, we met a nice old guy that took an interest in mapping out our remaining time on the road with us. His #1 suggestion was that we stop at Palo Duro Canyon near Amarillo, Texas. We're certainly glad that he insisted we stop because it really is something to see. 
If you haven't seen the Pixar animated movie "CARS" then go out and rent it right now. Or call us and we'll let you borrow it because we've seen it about a dozen times. Its a really great movie about a car that gets lost off the Interstate and finds itself stuck in a town that was once a thriving Route 66 stop. When the Interstate came, the town got bypassed and came upon hard times. Well, Route 66 still has a lot to show Americans on the road and we needed to take a look.
Above is a picture of the great view we had when we were descending from the "high plains" to the "low plains". By the way, America is a REALLY big country.
Out in West Texas is one of the Mother Road's greatest silly attractions....The Cadillac Ranch! Ten 1960's Cadillacs buried in the ground to sort of look like they were planted and sprouting. I didn't know that it was also in the middle of a huge cow pasture. But there's a fence right on the side of the old Route 66 and, of course, we got out and hiked through the cows to see 10 half buried Caddys. Only in America!
So after two nights we departed Taos (elev. 7200 feet) and ascended up Taos Canyon toward the east. This turned out to be the prettiest scenery of the entire trip. After only about an hour of slow driving we started seeing the property signs of the Philmont Scout Ranch.
For those of you who weren't in the Scouts, visiting Philmont Scout Ranch is like a pilgrimage to Mecca for a 15 year old boy. And I was 15 years old when I got to spend a week there backpacking through the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. Unbelievable scenery and wildlife. Uncle Carey Durham was even chased by a bear while he was camping there many years before I went. Anyway, I was glad to show it to the family and someday in the future I'm sure Jack will be hiking their trails.
Just before you arrive into the town of Taos, New Mexico from the west, you cross the Rio Grande Gorge. You're driving on what seems like an endless very flat plateau and then all of a sudden you're on a bridge and the bottom falls out beneath you 600 feet below. Very cool.
Be warned! If you don't like Pueblo architecture you should never step foot in Taos, New Mexico. Pictured above it the "Taos Pueblo" located on a reservation just outside of town. But every building that we could find in town was designed to fit into the look of the Pueblo. You just haven't lived until you've seen a Pueblo version of Wal-Mart. You name it shops, hotels, government buildings...all Pueblos. Taos is also a hub for southwestern artists and the home of Kit Carson who was sort of a "Daniel Boone of the west". From Mesa Verde we headed to the southwest to visit the Four Corners of Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. Check out www.hayleyadventures.com for a great picture of Hayley doing a Twister move into all four states at once.
Around Four Corners we came to the nasty realization that we would have to start heading back towards the east if we were to have any chance at all of returning to Mount Pleasant in time for the beginning of the kids' swim team season. So, with heavy hearts we moved toward the rising sun for the first time in over a month! By this time all the snow had melted in the lower elevations. But the pass we took through the Continental Divide still had several feet of snow on it even though the temps were into the 40's. The snow was really heavy and wet and made perfect snowballs. I hit Cindy square in the chest from about 50 feet away. We were joined on the snowy ridge by truckloads of snowmobilers getting in the very last few days of thick enough snow for the year.
Just what is that thing climbing up that tree? I wasn't sure at first and had to seriously fight down the undercurrent running within me that said,"If you shoot it, you can examine it much closer." Well, we're pretty sure its a porcupine. I didn't even know there really were porcupines anywhere. But we got out of the car and chased it up this tree. It had really long sharp spines all over it which, I guess, narrows it down to at least something in the porcupine family? But we let it go without shooting it anyway because Cindy said she wasn't sure how long to cook it and we didn't see one of those "Turkey's done" poppers anywhere on it.
The weather finally improved here today long enough for us to go and visit the Cliff Dwellings of the Ancient Anasazi people. These cliff dwellings were used by the inhabitants from about 700-1300 AD. Surprisingly, the cliff dwellings have survived quite well and getting the chance to view them was certainly worth the wait.
We opted to take a guided tour led by a National Park Service Ranger. This turned out to be a really great decision because we were the only four people on the tour. In the summer, there can be as many as 60 people on the tour so we were privileged to be able to ask as many questions as we wanted and the guide took particular interest in educating Hayley and Jack. 
There are about 100 different cliff dwelling areas on the south side of Mesa Verde. These Ancient Puebloan people are the anscestors of the Indian tribes of the Pueblo, Hopi, Zuni and many other contemporary tribes. The cliff dwellings were "rediscovered" by two cattle ranchers in the 1880s. The dwellings were built of sandstones and mortar. The back of the dwellings were storage areas, the middle living areas and the lower front sections were the Kivas. The Kivas were certainly the most interesting part (Hayley is pictured ascending out of a Kiva above). The Kiva was a sacred family place where only a kinlike clan could enter. Sort of like our little camper. The whole way back to the campsite from the Mesa we talked about what our Kiva should look like. We won't tell you because our Kiva is private and sacred to us.
Overall, we all agreed that visiting the cliff dwellings was near the top of our list of favorite things we've had the opportunity to do this trip.
Yesterday we took a horseback ride through a canyon located a few miles from our campground. Hayley has been interested in getting on a horse ever since we arrived here in the west. We watched "City Slickers" one night and that further piqued her interest!

Tonight we'll camp at the base of Mesa Verde (pictured above). We're staying at a really nice private campground that has a real Southwestern feel to it. Plus, they have cable TV and Wireless Internet in your camper. That's tough to beat!
Tomorrow we'll drive up on top of the Mesa and explore the National Park. Not only is this Mesa a National Park but its also one of the original 8 UNESCO World Heritage sites due to the remaining cliff dwellings of the ancient Anasazi people found there. We'll see it all tomorrow.
Sitting in our toasty warm camper in Custer, we came to the realization that a passage through the Rockies in Montana at the place Lewis and Clark performed it is just not going to happen this time of year. By Monday morning, enough snow had melted in Custer that we could actually get the camper out of the campground. So we made a run for it. The forecast was for more snow in Custer on Monday night. So we decided to head south to avoid the snow. Well, that didn't exactly work out as planned as you can see from the picture above. The bottom line is that there is snow in the Rockies right now and its hard to avoid. But anyway, we zoomed through Wyoming into Colorado and stopped for supper in Fort Collins. Then we drove through the night down Interstate 25 and took the US 160 route across the Continental Divide (pictured above). The route took us to over 9000 feet and I actually had some trouble breathing in the thin air.
But, as usual, the scenery was unbelievable. Pictured above is the headwaters of the Rio Grande.
Oh, but on our way across Wyoming we did pass some more Prairie Dog Towns. This time one was brave enough to let Cindy get a picture of it before it darted back into its hole.
More about this guy later.
On our first day in Custer, South Dakota, everyone told us that the snow would stop and it would melt tomorrow. Well tomorrow came and it just kept on snowing. But that didn't really slow us down. They keep the highways pretty clear so we took off over the hills to the Mt. Rushmore Memorial on Friday. It was snowing pretty hard but we got some good peeks at the sculpture anyway. They have a good visitor's center with lots of history about the Presidents as well as Gustov Borglum, the sculptor of the memorial. We also saw our first Mountain Goats on the drive up to Mt. Rushmore.
But there are actually two mountain sculptures in the Black Hills. Hayley and Jack are pictured above at the Crazy Horse carving. It was started in 1948 by a sculptor that had previously worked for Borglum on Mt. Rushmore. This statue will be much larger than Mt. Rushmore when completed. It took them 50 years just to get the face completed. But now that the face is complete, many more people are visiting and progress will probably increase. Unlike Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse is in no way supported or financed by state or federal government. The family of the sculptor (now deceased) is carrying on the project. At the base of the mountain they have an American Indian Museum and in the future will have the first American Indian Medical University.
So on the third day, everyone (including the weatherman) kept saying that tomorrow the snow will stop falling and begin melting. But they didn't know what they were talking about because it got down to 4 below zero in Custer and kept on snowing. Here is Hayley at Horse Thief Lake. 
But everyone's favorite animals in Custer State Park were the "Begging Burros". These Burros are wild but are descendants of a herd that were used by the settlers of the area. The Burros come running up to your car and stick their heads right in hoping you'll give them a treat. Well what a treat we gave them! You'll remember that it was snowing most of the time we were in Custer. Our car was carrying around literally pounds of road salt from the highways by the time we got to the prairie area of Custer State Park. The Begging Burros were happy to lick it off for us.
This is what your car looks like after it has had about 30 minutes of licking by a herd of Burros!
As you can see, they really aren't very shy.
As great as the pictures are, they just don't do the place any justice. Dissappointed that we couldn't find an open campground with electricity (necessary to run our heater in the below freezing climate) we spent Wednesday night in a hotel. But we woke up Thursday morning to a nice dusting of snow in Wall, South Dakota. So we immediately hopped into the car to see the Badlands National Park. Its so different from anything we were accustomed to. Its like being on the moon! We saw lots of wildlife but it was the inpenetrable hills that really wow-ed us. I just kept thinking that if I was an outlaw bank robber this is where I would hide. After touring the Badlands we moseyed on over to Wall Drug for lunch. For the South Carolinians reading, Wall Drug is like the I-95 "South of the Border" with an old west theme but on CRACK! Its just this giant tourist trap but its so cool.
After lunch to took off westbound on I-90 toward Rapid City and the Black Hills. The snow was really picking up but we knew the next spot we wanted to visit was the Mt. Rushmore area. We arrived at the Fort Welikit Campground late in the afternoon. The guy that runs the place was very helpful in getting us into our campsite. Since the Suburban isn't 4 wheel drive, we had a really tough time getting up the hill. The campground owner had a shovel out throwing dirt in front of our tires as we climbed into our campsite. But it was all worth it as I can tell you that there is not much better than drinking a cold beer with a belly full of Buffalo Steak (no kidding) in your toasty warm camper when its 17 degrees and snowing outside. Pictured above is Jack wearing his brand new coat that he got at Cabelas on our way across the plains.
We met a fantastic guide at the Western Trails Historic Center in Council Bluffs that gave us some great routes and ideas for our trip. I think the guy was more excited about our trip than we are. At one point, while describing the route we would take, he actually became speechless. These Lewis and Clark historians/guides are really into their work. So anyway, at this guys direction we departed Council Bluffs for Ponca State Park in Ponca, Nebraska. With a forecast for cooling weather.
We arrived at Ponca about sundown and the temperature was well below freezing. Lows during the night got down to the low 20's and we awoke to snow flurries. But the scenery was absolutely beautiful. We packed up and then spent about two hours in their fantastic educational visitor center. We learned all about the history of the Missouri River and current flood control measures for the river. But by lunchtime we had to depart and cross the Missouri (again). We've already crossed more times than we can count as we follow the trail westward.

With the forecast for the next 5 days barely breaking the freezing point, we decided we absolutely had to make a deviation off the trail to head to Cabelas outdoor store. I've been a Cabela's catalog customer for years and was glad to finally complete a pilgrimage to one of their retain stores. Its just like the Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World stores but with better products. After a couple of hours and hundreds of dollars, we departed Cabelas with all the gear we need to survive in the frigid Northwest.


After the girls felt better, we finally got to see the Lewis and Clark Trail exhibits in the Council Bluffs/Omaha area. This picture is of statues displaying the first meeting between the Corps and the Oto Indians. Lewis is handing a Jefferson Peace Medal to the chief of the tribe while his Newfoundland Dog "Seaman" stands guard. Sam really seemed to like the "Seaman" statue.






After we departed Cumberland Gap, we spent the night at Wolf Dam. The Army Corps of Engineers are hard at work there on a 7 year project to fix the dam. We stayed at their campground with nice facilities. Jason and the kids went over to see the fish hatchery that was located on the premises. Pictured above is Jack next to a batch of trout eggs. Trout are not indigenous to the Cumberland River area but the creation of the Wolf Dam drastically changed the water temperature. All the bass, crappie and catfish died so now they've sucessfully introduced the trout. 


Crossing the Ohio was another milestone for us. This was the first time that we intersected the route of the Lewis and Clark's Westbound Expedition. Meriweather Lewis actually departed from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania in 1803 and floated down the Ohio River to the Mississippi River. He later met up with William Clark later in 1803 near to St. Louis.
After exploring Cave in Rock, we headed toward St. Louis and stopped at Rend Lake in central Illinois. We were only planning to spend one night there but we were greeted on arrival by kids that became very friendly with Hayley and Jack so we spent two nights there.


Pictured above are Hayley and Jack with their friends Katelin and Ashlyn. They are from Evansville, Indiana and were on spring break. Hayley and Jack also went canoeing on Rend Lake. The weather was so warm that Jack went swimming in the lake too. The second morning we were there Jack came down with some type of stomach illness. He was feeling pretty bad but soon started to improve and we moved on up to the St. Louis area. This turned out to be a bit foreshadowing.